This week in fashion: unpacking Pharrell’s new role at Louis Vuitton menswear, Bethann Hardison to be honored at the NAACP Awards and more.
Amid the chilly winter air of New York City, things were heating up on the fashion runways as the industry gathered for this season’s New York Fashion Week.
Dur Doux’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection is, in a word, fun. The abundance of abstract prints, red floral print, resort wear silhouettes and colors like yellow, green, and gold will make the transition from the balmy summer to fall that much easier.
Lace, crochet, and silk were constants in an exciting and sultry Frederick Anderson Fall/Winter 2023 collection. Plunging necklines, dramatic halter silhouettes, and a primary palette of black, plum and pale blue give this collection a romantic, stylish vibe harkening back to the ’70s.
A label deeply inspired by Caribbean culture, House of Aama presented “Prelude: Aama Tales.” With the essence of Jamaican culture weaved into each piece, the collection featured crocheted bucket hats, bold colorblocking, flared sleeves, ruffles, and more.
Featuring sleek tuxedos, blazer-inspired minidresses, fur looks, and tailored trousers, LaQuan Smith’s Fall/Winter collection remixed classic tailoring and workwear looks. Alongside his always covetable womenswear line, Smith debuted menswear pieces for the first time during his show at The Rainbow Room.
Themes of the futuristic and voluminous reigned supreme in Luar’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection, which featured baggy fur hoodies, otherworldly double-breasted maxi trenchcoats, and puffy bombers in brooding hues. Clingy gowns, capes, and opera gloves rounded out the athlesisure-meets-night-at-the-opera feel.
’80s and ’90s style (complete with highlighter-bright shades and shoulder pads) exploded across the graffiti-printed runway during Sergio Hudson’s ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 2023 show. Hudson has become known for his suits, and his newest collection demonstrates why. Plaid, hot pink, lime green, and denim adorned suit jackets with matching skirts while dresses in bold prints and silhouettes sashayed past the star-studded front row.
Models walk the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
Models walk the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
Models walk the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
Model at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
Models walk the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
Models walk the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway during the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
Models walk the runway during the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
A model walks the Sergio Hudson show during New York Fashion Week at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Al Zeta/WireImage)
A model walks the Sergio Hudson show during New York Fashion Week at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Al Zeta/WireImage)
Bethann Hardison and Kimora Lee Simmons attend Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Sean Zanni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
Kendra Bailey, Keisha McCloud and Savannah Smith attend Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Sean Zanni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
Kysre Gondrezick and Keli Goff attend Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Sean Zanni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
Guest, Kimora Lee Simmons, Sunny Hostin, Tiffany D. Cross and Joy-Ann Reid attend Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Sean Zanni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
Patina Miller, Zerina Akers, guest, Dee Miller and guest attend Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Sean Zanni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
A model walks the Sergio Hudson show during New York Fashion Week at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Al Zeta/WireImage)
A model walks the Sergio Hudson show during New York Fashion Week at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Al Zeta/WireImage)
Models walk the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
Model at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
Model at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
Model at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
Model at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
Models walk the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
Model at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
Model at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
Model at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
Model at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
Model at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
Models walk the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
Sergio Hudson takes a bow on the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)
Designer Omar Salam dressed up traditional business casual silhouettes with chunky gold statement zippers, sequin and sheer collared shirts, and colored fur accents. A palette of gray, black, and mustard carry Sukeina’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection, with the color fuschia becoming a standout in a dramatic structural skirt moment.
Both contemporary and functional, Tiffany Brown Designs’ 2023 Fall/Winter collection offered yet another twist on the designer’s seasonal monochromatic color palette. This season, Brown focused on various shades of grey, her collection showcasing both dramatic and subtle menswear and womenswear silhouettes.
Influencers and influencer culture continue to revolutionize the fashion, beauty, and lifestyle industries. This year, influencer-turned-designer Denzel Dion, who launched his label NOID in 2020, made his NYFW debut. Showcasing the brand’s “Introspection” collection, filled with rich dark shades, colorblocking, and fur accents, the presentation felt like a graduation for Dion, who has been frequenting the fashion world for years.
American fashion model, activist, and New York culture behemoth Bethann Hardison is having a great month. As previously reported by theGrio, after the Sundance premiere of Hardison’s documentary “Invisible Beauty,” which chronicles her life and ascent in the fashion world, February kicked off with Hardison receiving the Fifteen Percent Pledge’s Pioneer Award during the nonprofit’s annual gala. And after spending New York Fashion Week appearing front row at all of the season’s hottest fashion shows during , Hardison will soon become the recipient of the NAACP’s Vanguard Award.
According to a release, Hardison will receive the Vanguard Award during the upcoming “54th NAACP Image Awards Images: Fashion Moments in Time” event, slated to take place Thursday, February 23, in Los Angeles.
This week, Louis Vuitton announced Pharrell Williams as its new creative director of menswear, and many in the industry had mixed feelings about the prestigious new appointment. Despite being behind well-known streetwear brands like Billionaire Boys Club, industry experts and fashion fans alike have called Williams’ appointment a marketing ploy, given his celebrity status and lack of formal fashion design training.
Williams will be succeeding the late Virgil Abloh, the first Black American to serve as artistic director of a French luxury brand. Like Williams, Abloh, an architect by training, did not study fashion but worked his way up in the industry through fashion competitions, internships, collaborations, and more, all of which eventually led to him building an empire and a loyal fanbase.
Although Williams already has both a substantial fanbase and experience in streetwear, as well as past long-term collaborative relationships with both Chanel and Adidas, his celebrity status caused many to question Louis Vuitton’s intentions behind the appointment. Most significantly, some experts considered the decision a slap in the face to skilled Black fashion designers who had been rumored to be in the running, like Martine Rose, Grace Wales Bonner, Ib Kamara, Maximilian Davis, and Tremaine Emory.
“I love Pharrell, but no,” tweeted fashion editor Shelton Boyd-Griffith. “I’d much rather take a young design grad or in-house designer…. Please, let’s go back to trained designers designing.”
On the other hand, fashion historian Shelby Ivey Christie arguedon Twitter that Williams’ “impact on hype style [and] culture is undeniable.”
Only time will tell what the luxury fashion house will look like with Pharrell’s leadership. But, it is fair to say that there are several Black designers whose skillsets and portfolios would have made them great fits for the role.
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The post theGrio Style Guide: Back to Black for NYFW Fall-Winter 2023 appeared first on TheGrio.
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