A solid travel story about Greece should start something like: “A reflected full moon shimmers off the Gulf of Chania as we sip shots of raki with honey on the waterfront of Apostolis restaurant,” or “The shapely DJ at DNA nightclub spins Rick Ross’ ‘Santorini Greece’ into DJ Khaled’s ‘Greece,’ Drake rhyming about speedboats as the universal language of gyrating hips expresses itself loud and clearly…”
If the musical references don’t intrigue you, Greece’s special connections to many Black travelers bear some mention. Since the founding of the Alpha Phi Alpha fraternity at Cornell University, members of Black Greek Letter Organizations (BGLOs) have proudly sported symbols like ΔΣΘ and ΩΨΦ for more than a century. More recently, consider that Black folks have singlehandedly made the Greek Islands destination-worthy hotspots since the dawning of the Instagram era, turning “
A wellness eco-village of rustic, cabin-like houses provides the ultimate getaway to recharge your battery, topped off by the award-winning Milia restaurant, guided by chef Vasilis Makrakis. The place is like a spa, only the treatment is deep immersion in nature. The countryside surroundings make the food go down differently — and only fresh ingredients factor into their delectable ratatouille, moussaka, beef short ribs, chicken, pork and goat. Sourcing from henhouse-picked eggs and surrounding mountain herbs, Milia’s farm-to-table menu is a winner.
Not every drool-worthy restaurant in Crete requires winding pathways through the hills. Right in the heart of Rethymno, in a renovated 16th-century Venetian-style villa, lies Avli. Founded by Katerina Xekalou in the late ’80s, Avli’s decorative ferns, geraniums and exposed stone set up an amazing ambiance to enjoy some traditional dishes. The courtyard setup makes for a perfect date night (Avli also rents ten surrounding suites for a luxe vacay) or hours-long brunch to talk over your amazing time in Crete. Greece spares no shortage of cheese pastries, but Avli’s kalitsounia can’t be missed. Whether paired with grilled fish, roasted lamb, ravioli or something else, the top-tier wine selection has to be sampled as well; bottles are served from local Cretan wineries like Menexes, Zoumberakis and Zidianakis.
Speaking of, wine connoisseurs will be all grins and smiling eyes at the tastings on offer in Crete. The Anoskeli olive mill and winery (named for a small village near Chania) sets up a tasting room for anyone reserving in advance to sample favorites. Try blended varietals like the Ano Playa Rosé or single variety wines like their Anoferia Syrah. Likewise, the Kourkoulou winery accepts booking visits for wine tours of award-winning selections from their own local vineyard: try their fruity Vidiano or the Mikro-Mikraki rosé. Finally, in the cellar of the 17th century Agia Triada monastery (yes, a monastery), past dozens of Greek-lettered wine barrels and a gift shop lies another trove of flavorsome wines. Savor the atmosphere and sample my favorite: their deep purple merlot with a blackcurrant-marmalade aftertaste.
Other honorable mentions for great food and wine that won’t break the bank you’ve already broken to get to Crete include the 7 Thalasses seafood restaurant in Heraklion, the family-owned Taverna Leventogiannis and the super down-home Poliou House.
Eventually, it will be time for the beach, and maybe some culture. Hitting Plakias Beach on the south coast as often as possible will satisfy all your sunning and funning. If you’re staying at a luxury beach resort like Nautilux (highly recommended), then the relaxing Rethymnon Beach is at your daily disposal. My eight-day trip coincided with the 13th annual Rethymno City Run; I sprinted a 5K race from the city square alongside Rethymnon Beach and back to the Nautilux hotel (in 34 minutes flat, thank you). For sportive globetrotters, a hike up the lushly green Mili Gorge might scratch that nature-lover itch while burning calories; the caves are gorgeous.
Lastly, the museums of Crete offer all the intriguing historical information travelers would want to wrap their heads around, particularly at the Museum of Ancient Eleutherna, the Historical and Folklore Museum of Theriso and the Chania Archaeological Museum. Just remember to pack your worn copy of George G.M. James’s “Stolen Legacy” for the requisite reminder that a lot of Greek philosophy actually has its roots in the mystery schools of North Africa.
A final note: vacationing Black travel groups may want to tour some luxury villas as a last taste of the island, for ideas on lodgings for their inevitable return. Lavish accommodations at Villa Terra Creta or the Amphi Exclusive Residence offer rates that skew towards affordable when divided between parties of 10 to 12 on holiday together. Yamas!
The Greek National Tourism Organization provided complimentary travel and accommodations for the writer of this article.
Miles Marshall Lewis (@MMLunlimited) is an author and Harlem-based cultural critic whose work has appeared in The New York Times Magazine, GQ, Rolling Stone and many other outlets. Lewis is currently finishing a cultural biography of comedian Dave Chappelle, his follow-up to Promise That You Will Sing About Me: The Power and Poetry of Kendrick Lamar.
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