If cities could talk, Memphis showed me how much she had to say during my short stay. She loves barbecue, rock n’ roll, and Elvis, but there’s much more to this lively place. While experiencing Black Restaurant Week in Memphis, it was easy to see the heart of the southern destination known as Bluff City.
Perched on the Mississippi River, Memphis is named after the ancient capital of Egypt. The pace of life is slow and manners are always in vogue. For example, your cab driver may insist on opening the car door, and your restaurant order may take a minute to come out. You’ll hear “sir” and “ma’am” almost as often as religious references. That’s the South in a nutshell, and there was no desire to swim against the tide.
The itinerary was curated with Black culture in mind. Food is sacred and experiencing some of the best in Memphis was a delight. There are plenty of Black-owned restaurants to tickle the palate. Meals to remember can be found at Supper Club on 2nd, Alcenia’s and Mahogany Memphis. Curry N’ Jerk: Authentic Caribbean Cuisine’s oxtails also did not disappoint.
It wasn’t all eating and levity; however, Slave Haven and The National Civil Rights Museum, are stark reminders of past horrors.
The Stax Museum of American Soul Music is a treasure trove of music history. It no longer operates as a studio, but Stax remains a special place for all to enjoy.
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Slave Haven Underground Railroad Museum
Long before the restaurants and coffee shops, slavery was a major enterprise.
Adams Avenue in downtown Memphis was a miserable place for enslaved people. Stripped of their autonomy, they were described with terms reserved for draft horses or cattle. The cruelty is hard to fathom.
Not everyone in the South supported slavery, including abolitionist Jacob Burkle who built Slave Haven in 1849. There, he housed runaways, at great risk to all involved. This was one of many tales of courage in the face of injustice.
The most chilling feature of the house is the secret cellar. It was a dank and unsettling space hosted those seeking freedom crawled through holes in the walls to the back garden before running to the river nearby. If they reached the free states in the North, there was the risk of torture or death.
Calvary Episcopal Church Marker
Outside the Calvary Episcopal Church sits a marker titled, ‘Forrest and the Memphis Slave Trade.’
Unlike a previous marker from the 1950s, this one speaks frankly of Nathan Bedford Forrest. After making a fortune from slave trading, Forrest fought for the Confederacy in the Civil War. When his side lost, he became a Grand Wizard in the Ku Klux Klan.
Although the original marker depicted Forrest as an ordinary entrepreneur, rather than someone who trafficked people for profit, the sign was eventually updated. The church and the National Park Service joined forces to expose him as an oppressor of his time, a respectable act for historical truth-telling.
The Lorraine Motel and The National Civil Rights Museum
“When you learn history a certain way, it’s hard to unlearn it,” shared Carolyn Michael Banks, founder of A Tour of Possibilities. “History can be uncomfortable. African-American history can be really uncomfortable.”
The gifted scholar and storyteller is right.
During a previous tour, someone told Carolyn the Civil War was about states’ rights. When she asked them to specify what rights were in question, the person got quiet. They wouldn’t admit the war concerned one thing only — the fate of slavery.
The tour also highlighted Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.’s role in the Civil Rights Movement. For example, learning less publicized events like the decade before Dr. King’s murder in 1968, a woman stabbed him with a letter opener. King referenced this in his last speech, I’ve Been to the Mountaintop. In poetic fashion, he said he was grateful he hadn’t sneezed or the letter opener would have punctured his heart.
At the Lorraine Motel, a white wreath hangs in front of room 306, where King was shot. Next to that is The National Civil Rights Museum, which chronicles Black history from 1619 to 1968. The exhibits make the case that racism in the Americas has always been systemic.
Memphis Is A Haven For Music Lovers and Foodies
Memphis conceived blues and rock n’ roll, inspiring the murals on Beale Street and beyond. Tourist sites like Graceland, Sun Studio and Stax explain how music shaped the city.
Casual and diehard Elvis fans will enjoy perusing his beautiful home, car, plane and motorcycle collections. This was a man who lived life to the fullest, but not for long. He died young, as did his daughter Lisa Marie, and his grandson. They are buried together in the Meditation Garden, on the grounds of Graceland.
While Sun Studio wasn’t on the agenda, Stax is where Black creatives can tune out the injustice of the real world and focus on their art. Otis Redding and Carla Thomas were signed to Stax Records, while Issac Hayes and David Porter were the Dream Team of songwriting.
Porter, who co-wrote “Soul Man” and “Hold On, I’m Coming!” is still active in the music business. He mentors songwriters and singers at his studio, 4U Recording. For all his accomplishments, he’s gracious and down to earth.
Beale Street is the entertainment artery of Memphis. Other options for live music include Silky O’Sullivan’s and Rum Boogie Cafe.
When it comes to gastronomy, Memphis deserves the hype. Every bite of fried chicken and brisket was an explosion of flavor. The mac and cheese and lavender margaritas at Supper Club on 2nd were top tier. However, the runaway winner was the fried red snapper at Mahogany Memphis, paired with cream of spinach and sautéed vegetables. When you have dinner in the South, fast all day or bring two stomachs. The portions are no joke.
Whether you’re visiting for Black Restaurant Week Memphis, or just because, this colorful city will surely keep you wanting more.
